It has a beautiful overview of the city and there are rows of flowers and other vegetation. In fact, even though it was so close to the urban area, it has been one of my favorite hikes in all of Chile because of the flora.
In fact, probably the two most famous writers, Pablo Neruda and Gabriela Mistral have called Temuco home. Mistral worked as a school teacher in Temuco, which at the time was still considered a frontier town. Iba vestida de color arena. Era la directora del liceo. Se llamaba Gabriela Mistral. Neruda grew up in Temuco where his father worked as a train engineer, explaining his Ode to Southern Trains.
Until , steam trains were the main system of transit around Chile. Those visiting Temuco can go to the Train Museum named after Neruda , which is an interesting monument to old-time trains, some decaying under the rain.
Others are sheltered in a round building, but visitors can no longer visit these trains given the damage from the earthquake and the lack of funds to repair the structure. Lucky guests get to take a day trip on an old steam train every once in a blue moon but they must reserve their passages as soon as the Museum announces one. Besides the more institutionalized history of Temuco, the streets also tell a story.
Temuco was a frontier town. As it began to develop with nearby farms and agricultural companies, people built mansions. And along what is now Avenida Alemania, the residents had garden contests. A few of the mansions still exist, one hosts the regional museum and another has been transformed into part of Universidad Catolica.
Many of the mansions no longer remain as development needs took their toll. In recent years, Temuco got its first mall with Jumbo as the anchor the owner of Jumbo, which is a Walmart-like store and my favorite place because it has cheddar cheese and shortbread cookies, is from Temuco. The mall now sits along Avenida Alemania where the mansions once sat and only a few blocks from the luxury casino and restaurants.
While the mall provides the comforts of home, old Temuco still lies at the Plaza de Armas, just a 30 minute walk along Avenida Alemania. While many of the shops have left, there still remains some old-town charm. The cathedral of Temuco was once destroyed by an earthquake.
They eventually rebuilt a modern almost-brutalist structure in its place. It is a tower that looms over the city and can be seen from the plane or the large hills. In the s and the s, the Chilean government reformed higher education by allowing universities to churn profit. Consequently, many universities opened in Temuco offering education to students from the nearby farms. Students came for school and many stayed, changing the very urban-rural population dynamics.
Many students still come in for university, but these universities do not offer dorms. Instead, there are cabins, unattached shed-like rooms, and for those that are lucky, there are boarding rooms in houses. The population remains one of the poorest in Chile, evoking a double economy.
The rural buses fill up in the mornings with people bringing in their products and on Saturday mornings, if you go to the market by the bus station you will see the horse-drawn carts. Farmers will come in and spend a few days sleeping on the side of the road with their animals to sell their most recent harvest.
In many ways, the city and urban population have developed rapidly in the past several years. Down the street though are the local businesses and farmers still abound. It may no longer be a frontier town, but the old charm is still there.
Walking the streets, even with no particular destination, you will see the fusion between the old and new; the urban and the rural. A street off of Plaza Italia hosts stone work and flower shops- it leads to one of the old cementaries. Off of Caupolican up to Balmaceda, you can see socially-conscious street art. Around the plaza, you can step into a local business or an old house selling colaciones or daily set-lunches.
On Avenida Claro Solar, an old house across from the Baptist Church offers one of the best vegetarian options, whether it is their vegetarian quiche or potato lasagna. They offer a huge variety ranging from asado meats and chickens, to stews, bean dishes, and pastas.
The owner is sweet and will give you a candy as you leave. Typical of Chile a television sits on the wall and you can watch local news or a typical program of s music. Perhaps, my favorite aspect of Leon de Barbaro has been the slightly- telenovela -like happenings. On Baras, if you head to the train museum you will see more street art and the typical old-school houses made of aluminum siding for roofs. While Santiago may boast more restaurants and finer dining, there are flavors in Temuco with which Santiago just cannot compete.
For example, Zuny restaurant has won accolades for its Mapuche fusion cuisine. Its aji or chile sauce is the best that I have had in a restaurant. It is the dark red paste consistent with the color of the pepper.
They smoke the pepper first, as is done with merken , and it has a nice spicy, smoky flavor. Zuny has a few daily options including a vegetarian one with a platter of seven to eight different selections. While it may not be my favorite, the mashed toasted flour is a flavor unlike anything else.
People drink it with sugar in water as an afternoon snack, like a healthy milkshake. The restaurant also does wonders with mote that grain that has become fashionable in Santiago in the traditional Mapuche drink of mote con huesillos. They offer it in an almost cheesy creamed style salad and for dessert, they serve it with condensed milk and raspberry jam. As an organic restaurant, they also serve delicious juices including compressed carrots with sugar and apparently, in season, you can get avocado juice.
Even though Zuny tends to be way off-the beaten path, in a lower income residential area, and although its sign does not say Zuny, it is one of the gems of Temuco. Meanwhile, Madonna has the best razor clams I have had in Chile and that is saying a lot.
Also, along the main Avenida Alemania sits Gohan, surprisingly good sushi for a non-coastal town. Up until five years ago, seafood was rare in Temuco because even though the coast was maybe two hours away, people did not typically consume fish or trust its freshness. For the traditional Chilean sandwich which is like a hamburger but better, there are two stellar options near the center- Coco and Chile Sandwich. I prefer the ave bird version that comes on hot warm greasy over-sized buns with mayo, avocado, tomatoes, chopped up chicken, and peppers.
It hits that greasy warm spot that we will have and satisfies our cravings. For empanadas and every-kind of pastry filled with manjar that is imaginable, I hit the LicanRay bakery across from Barbaro on Vicuna McKenna. Street-food can of course not be beaten ok it probably it can in other countries , but for Chile it is darned good in Temuco. Zapatos hombre. Botin chukka de gamuza sport. Modelo: Botin Chukka. Suela Cuero Flexible. Sin Forro. Evitar el Agua y Limpiar solo en Zapateros Especializados.
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