Above this obstacle, steep snow leads up a couloir to 3rd class rock and eventually the spine of Pinnacle Ridge above Gooseneck Pinnacle. Climbing here is generally straightforward, but exposure over the east face is big, so some parties choose to protect certain sections. Hopefully, time and weather allow a chance to enjoy the summit of Gannett, at the highpoint of Wyoming and of all the Rockies north of Colorado.
Many parties choose to rappel or downclimb with protection from Pinnacle Ridge and past the bergschrund. Snow conditions will hopefully allow easier downclimbing or glissading below there, and a swift return back to camp.
Description Gannett Peak is the tallest summit anywhere in the Rocky Mountains outside of Colorado, and thus makes the state highpoint of Wyoming. However, the approach to this route is a large factor in the overall difficulty as well.
The trail rises through granite gorges and over treeless, grassy plateaus. Crevasses can exist, and they may or may not be hidden by snow bridges. Before heading out, get current trail conditions and advisories for the area.
The hike is over 45 miles roundtrip and an almost 9 , -foot vertical climb. The best climbing months are late June, July, August, and early September. Conditions vary from season to season, so check ahead of time to know what to expect.
Novices and newcomers are advised to hire guides to lead them through any trip. Over the past years, climbers report that the Gooseneck Route has changed dramatically due to receding and melting glaciers. The bergschrund is also becoming a more complex obstacle to overcome. It is recommended that groups attempting to climb this peak go early in the season so that snow bridges are in better condition for traveling.
Check on conditions regularly, as snowfall can be inconsistent from season to season. Gannett Peak has five rugged glaciers on its flank, the largest glaciers in the American Rocky Mountains. It is remote and considered an alpine mountaineering challenge due to its inaccessibility and difficulty. The mountain was first climbed in This trip is best tackled by strong and experienced climbers with great stamina, who are well-acclimated to high elevations.
The trip includes traversing glaciers that contain deep crevasses that can lay hidden under a coat of shallow snow. Ropes, crampons, ice axes, and both knowledge and understanding of proper usage are essential.
Be aware that this is extremely remote country, and potential dangers are part of the wilderness experience. You must be prepared to take care of yourself in case of an accident. Cellular phone service is not available and medical and rescue teams are very far away. It is wise to ravel with at least one other person and log a travel plan with a friend on where you are going and when you will return.
Know basic first aid and carry a first aid kit. The most common dangers in the high reaches of the Bridger Wilderness are high altitude sickness, hypothermia, and dehydration. The mountain is the 3rd-highest "Triple Crown" county highpoint, which is a peak that has a minimum of ' of clean prominence, requires a minimum of ' elevation gain from a passenger vehicle road, and is on the "Apex" list of most difficult county highpoints in the contiguous USA. Gannett Peak is the fourth-highest peak on the "Apex" list and easily one of the most remote.
Any summit attempt of Gannett Peak requires a wide variety of mountaineering skills. Considered as one of the most difficult state highpoints, the only other state highpoints that either rival or exceed its technical difficulty are Denali Alaska , Mount Rainier Washington , and Granite Peak Montana. It is debatable whether or not the latter two are actually more difficult than Gannett Peak, depending on experience, skills, weather, and conditions.
Any summit attempt of Gannett Peak should be considered a backcountry trip. Although a few mountaineers have been able to summit the peak within 24 hours, most people require days. There are two standard approaches for the peak, each with its advantages and disadvantages. There are also some route variations, too.
This route is the longest standard approach for any state highpoint in the contiguous USA. As a result, sometimes this route gets overlooked. However, it can be considered short-sighted to only look at its mileage and elevation gain. In reality, this route only has 10 more miles and ' cumulative elevation gain than the other standard approach from the west , which converts to only five extra miles and ' extra gain each way.
The biggest advantage to this route is on summit day, due to a closer high camp i. This route has long been considered the main standard approach for Gannett Peak, although for the reasons mentioned above the Glacier Trail approach from the east has been gaining popularity during recent years.
The western approach is a well-travelled route full of spectacular scenery and views. However, despite an overall shorter route and less cumulative elevation gain, summit day is where it loses its most advantages over the eastern standard approach.
The necessity to climb over Bonney Pass also known as Dinwoody Pass requires an elevation loss of approximately ' during the approach to Gannett Peak, which of course becomes an extra elevation gain of ' when returning back to camp from the peak. The extra mileage, gains, and losses on summit day can sometimes double-up the time required on that day, when compared with the eastern standard approach.
Ink Wells Trail : The advantage of this route is that a large amount of distance and effort can be saved by the time the route intersects with the Glacier Trail. However, the disadvantage of this route is that access is both limited and expensive. This route crosses the Wind River Indian Reservation, which requires special permission, guidance, and transportation to travel through. Reservations are required in advance and sometimes difficult to achieve, and even if a reservation can be made the cost can be substantial hundreds of dollars, total.
Tourist Creek Route : The advantage of this route is that it is shorter than the standard approaches and ascends the steep west face of Gannett Peak.
The disadvantage of this route is that there is a large amount of routefinding, bushwhacking, and technical rock climbing involved. Wells Creek Route : The advantage of this route is that it is shorter than the standard approaches and ascends the steep west face of Gannett Peak. Some people might also opt to have local outfitters help porter mountaineering parties and gear along the standard approaches, although for a substantial fee.
Regardless of route, any approach of Gannett Peak must be taken seriously as a true mountain climb. Potential summiters needs to be prepared for long hikes, possible routefinding, inclement weather and terrain conditions, steep snow and ice, glacier travel, and scrambling. Mountaineering skills are required; this peak is not recommended for amateur hikers.
This road turns into Forest Road Take the right fork, onto Forest Road also known as Skyline Drive. The trailhead for Pole Creek Trail originates at this location. No special permits are required for the standard approaches of Gannett Peak. However, standard wilderness rules and regulations apply. If a trail register is present at a trailhead, sign-in at the beginning of the trek and sign-out upon return. Contact a local ranger district for current rules, regulations, and route conditions prior to any trip to this area.
The optimum climbing season for Gannett Peak is June through September. Most climbers visit the peak during July and August. Far less snow is encountered along the standard approaches during August, but many climbing parties prefer visiting during July when the Gooseneck Glacier bergschrund and other crevasses are not yet fully opened if at all.
A few people attempt and climb Gannett Peak off-season, but it is not recommended due to inclement off-season weather, snow blizzards, avalanches, and possibly snowed-in roads leading to trailheads.
Backcountry camping is permitted within both Bridger Wilderness and Fitzpatrick Wilderness. Gannett Peak was officially named during , in honor of Henry Gannett. During his lifetime, Gannett was well-known for his topographical work and in doing so became regarded as the "Father of the Quadrangle. The Gannett Glacier, located on the north side of Gannett Peak, is the largest glacier in the Rocky Mountains south of the Canadian border.
In the book, each standard approach for Gannett Peak has detailed descriptions, general route maps, and diagrams.
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